How to Ride a Dirt Bike: Beginner’s guide to ride like a pro


There really is no shortcut to success. Even the best of the best dirt bike riders in the world went through a lot of hardships and suffered countless injuries and falls. They all started as beginners and went through the same rugged path. You may be wondering that riding dirt bike is tough and yes it is; but with proper knowledge at your side, you might as well be the next big thing in the world of dirt bike racing. This guide that you are about to read contains some of the basics and fundamental lessons and tips on how to ride a dirt bike.


Starting the Bike

To initiate a dirt bike, you’ll primarily have to turn on the battery power of the bike. By doing this, it will not really set up and start the engine, but will instigate the dirt bike’s battery so that the engine can start later on. On the majority of dirt bikes, you’ll do this by means of basically rotating the key to the “on” point.

Decide if you will need a choke. If it’s warm outside or if the bike has been in operation already that day, then you probably won’t require making use of the choke. On the other hand, if you’re starting cold, then you may need to haul out the choke.

At this time we need to hit upon to neutral (if this is a kids bike), or drag in the clutch and go to first gear if this is an adult bike. If your bike has a manual clutch (as is the case with virtually all adult dirt bikes, but which is not usually the case with kids bikes), then you’ll want to pull in the clutch first. The clutch is your left handle (as if it were the left hand brake on a bicycle). Pull it in completely. This successfully places the bike in neutral for the reason that the clutch disengages the gear.

If this is a kid’s bike without a clutch, sit on the bike and attain your left foot onward to the gear shifter. Step downward on the lever in front of the foot beg constantly—about 6 times to make sure you’re in neutral.

On the other hand, if you are on an adult bike, you could do with to follow the identical course of action to place the bike in first gear. Sit on the bike and by means of your left foot, reach frontward starting the foot peg to the gear shifter and step downward on it 6 times to guarantee you’re in first gear. We’ll start the bike in first gear, but hold the clutch to be able to start it. We may perhaps go into neutral, but as we’ll talk about in the next section, neutral can be complicated to come across on your initial ride, so the clutch is an easier starting spot.

To actually start the engine, you may need to use the kick starter. It is located at the right side of the bike. You’ll turn over out the tall silver metal kick starter with your hand, after that, stand on the foot peg with your left foot, and put your right foot on the kick starter lever. This is for older types of bikes. The newer kinds of bikes have an electric start button.

You may perhaps locate that you could do with to present just a minor quantity of gas as you make use of the electric start or the kick start. Don’t drag the throttle too firm or long even though the bike isn’t started, for the reason that pulling the throttle will propel gas to the engine and submerge it.

The bike should be started. If you used the choke, thrust it back in. This is where it’s nice to have the bike in neutral if you want to let it idle for a minute if not; you have to keep the clutch apprehended in for a while.

Clutch Control and Shifting

By the use of shifter, you can change gears on a dirt bike. It is the only way to change gears. There will be no indicator on what gear you are in, so the best way to know it is for you to get the feel for it. There are typically 5 gears on an adult dirt bike. By means of stepping down rapidly, you will attain the first gear and if you clasp your foot under the shifter and raise it to some extent by half click, you will be in neutral. For most of the first timers, being in neutral is tough.


We will begin riding the bike with it in first gear. You have pulled in your clutch to start the bike. To move, we’ll revolve back the throttle, located on your right handle grip. Let go of the clutch slowly with your left hand and you gradually roll back the throttle with your right hand. The two actions have to come about at the equal time. If you allow the clutch out too quickly lacking an adequate amount of gas, it will stagger ahead an inch and then kill the engine. If you provide it with a large amount gas, once the throttle is detached, the bike will discharge frontward forcefully away of your hands.

Carry out the progress little by little earlier than you seize your first ride. Gradually release the clutch as you slowly roll back the throttle to provide it with gas. You probably would like to be at about 1/3 of the complete movement of the throttle once the clutch is released. This is sufficient to get you going away slowly. Going in half or full throttle may caused too much power

If the bike was to run off onward, or you find yourself departing too fast, just release the throttle. This may appear obvious, but a lot of riders get what’s called “whiskey throttle”, which is when you establish too fast, panic and freeze, and then you jerk frontward waiting to ram into something. Immediately remind yourself that if you ever went too fast, just let go of your right hand. Once you’re going forward in first gear, you will rapidly wish for a switch to second and higher gears. You’ll be familiar with it’s time to shift when you take notice of the engine functioning really hard.

To shift up once you’re already in action, remain your throttle by means of your right hand at the accurate place wherever it already is. Don’t move it while you shift. You have to to carry on some throttle, so don’t let go. Now rapidly pull in the clutch and get in touch with your left foot beneath the gear shifter and haul it up to the next gear. Now unleash the clutch quickly. You don’t have to allow the clutch out little by little this time. You’re now in an upper gear.

Whenever you are ready to decelerate, pull in the clutch first. If you don’t pull in the clutch at the same time as you slow down, you’ll kill the bike. After that, use the brake. You can hit the brake a little bit not including the clutch in; however just don’t cut your speed in half without pulling in the clutch.

If you wish for moving forward and not come to a stop, but you would like to slow down a little, then just get in touch with your left foot forward and step down on the gear shifter. The cool thing with reference to the shifter on a dirt bike is that you don’t have to to use the clutch at all when shifting down gears. It’s still good to use it when shifting up, but the clutch on a dirt bike is multi-plated and in a pool of oil, in addition it merely works unlike than in a car, so it’s not a big contract to shift without the clutch.

Several dirt bike riders don’t make use of the clutch by any means to shift up or down. I personally suggest learning to use the clutch to shift up, but just kicking it downward without the clutch. We can enter this debate about clutch use later. For the time being, just do what 95% of dirt bike riders carry out and make use of the clutch to go up gears, and just kick it down to go down a gear with no clutch.


In attendance, there are two brakes on your dirt bike. The brake that good number beginners settle in the direction of is the right hand brake which is the silver lever in face of your right hand. I don’t want you to use this brake at all on your first 10-15 rides. Hand brakes are infamously “grabby.” If you aren’t used to the experience of a hand brake, you’ll probably pull it like you would pull the brake on a bicycle, which would result in you soaring greater than the handlebars even at a low speed.

The front brakes require to be lightly squeezed part way. Don’t grasp at it like you possibly will on a bicycle. The front hand brake controls the front tire of the bike. Squeezing it rapidly will put pressure on the front of the bike, so it’s not suited for departing downhill. In the long run, you’ll realize the front brake is to a certain extent helpful, but for now, I suggest not using it at all.

The foot break is the primary brake on a dirt bike. It takes a minute to get used to using a foot brake for the reason that it’s less normal than the hand brake that we learned on a bicycle. On the other hand, the foot brake reins the rear tire of the dirt bike, which provides the smoothest stop.

The foot brake is the tiny metal knob about 6” in facade of your right foot hook. You’re supposed to sit so the ball of your foot is on the foot peg, and after that you choose up your foot and scoot it frontward to the foot brake at what time you would like to stop.

The foot brake is not quite as “grabby” as the front brake. If you were to halt on the foot brake at full speed, it would create the back tire fishtail a bit, but you’d approach to a smooth stop. You don’t have to be concerned concerning pressing the foot brake and having the bike grab hold of up and propel you flying off of it. The foot brake is smooth, and easier for beginners.

Your Gas Tank

Most of the standard dirt bikes nowadays will be able to run for about 6 hours sooner than the tank dries out of gas. Most of the riders are satisfied with this amount of time but there is a technique in which you can extend this time period a little more.

Once you’re out of gas, dismount on your bike and glance on the left side (usually, but it’s sometimes on the right). There is a silver metal switch that controls the gas tank. You’ll see “on”, which is where your bike is right now. Then, you’ll see “off”, which is where you set it after you finish riding so no gas can get out of the tank and evaporate or flood your engine if the bike tips. Then, you’ll see “reserve.” Now that you’re out of gas, flip it to reserve and you’ll have a little more gas to get back to your truck.

Crash Like a Pro

Sooner or later, you would experience some kind of crash or accident and it really is inevitable. Almost 65% of dirt bike injuries occur on the waist down. There is one error you require to stay away from that can radically get better your odds of not throbbing your foot or shin. When you sense like you’re going to collide or crash, don’t protrude your foot to steer clear of the crash. This is a common misconception of some riders, that instead of avoiding a serious injury; it might get worst because of this. It’s absolutely all right to make use of your foot adjacent to the ground for steadiness. Pros do it constantly. But, keep that foot turned horizontal to the bike, keep it out far to the side away from the foot peg, and if you’re going to crash, pull that foot in and set it on the foot peg.

Along with the proper execution in crash events, it is also needed to have a quality safety gears to protect you on your fall. Some of the gears includes, helmet, goggles, gloves, a chest protector (not just a roost protector), good quality full-length dirt bike boots, elbow and knee guards, and gloves. Better spend something expensive as long as it is for your own protection and safety.

Rider Position

Beginners tend to sit on the bike; it is okay though if riding on a flat and level ground. But when you go off road, sitting on the bike is a big no as it could be uncomfortable and not suited for the track. It might take some time to practice standing on the bike but as soon as you mastered this complicated technique, you will find it easy to ride in any off road environment. Take time to practice this routine on off road tracks.

The proper way to a standing position is by standing up on the foot pegs; lift your butt a few inches off the seat. This allows your legs and body to soak up the shock of the impacts as you bounce along the trail. If you don’t stand up when you go over major bumps, you could easily hurt your back or spine. Make straight out your back as you stand up a little on the pegs. You ought to feel like a football defensive player getting ready for the play to start, or a tennis player ready to receive the serve. Stick out your elbows so they run parallel to the handlebars. This gives you greater power and reaction time when turning. Place the ball of your foot on the foot pegs and not the heel of your foot. This is particularly imperative with your right foot otherwise you could involuntarily ride the brake to some extent with your right foot. Last, push your head forward so your chin is over the handlebars.

This method is exhausting and will take a lot of energy, so feel free to sit on the bike during easy and flat surfaces on the track to relax your body.

The road to dirt bike riding is really tough, but with proper education, knowledge and guidance, all this is plausible. There are no shortcuts to success just as they say; but if you are able to overcome all this hardships, you will be very proud of your own efforts.

You might also enjoy